The Kwantlen First Nation, From the Early Years to Now

The band’s history, walking tours in Fort Langley, and upcoming events

The History

At this point in Canadian history, it’s well-known that the Europeans weren’t the first to touch ground here. In many areas of the Fraser Valley, the Kwantlen First Nation—after which our institution is named, with permission from the late Grand Chief Joe Gabriel—came before the white settlers, and their territory was vast, natural, and beautiful. Fortunately, much of it still is today.

On the band’s official website, it is written that they “live by the seven traditional laws that guided [their] ancestors: health, happiness, generations, generosity, humbleness, forgiveness, and understanding.” Significant importance is placed on family, tradition, culture, and land. Their native language, Halkomelem, continues to be spoken by the 200-300 Kwantlen First Nation members that are registered in Canada.

Before Europeans arrived in the 1800s, the Kwantlen were settled in many now-urban areas such as New Westminster, Surrey, Mission, and Langley. Once, they controlled over half of the Mainland’s Halkomelem land.

They moved up to Fort Langley when colonialists arrived, where walking tours funded by Port Metro Vancouver are now held to educate anyone who is interested in learning about their past and present.

The Tour

Raindrops bounce off of the Fraser River on a cloudy evening in Fort Langley. On the water, rowers float by in the current, slow and silent under the heavy shower. Behind them lies only lush, emerald forest and silver sky. Before them is a small wooden landing, where over twenty people are gathered to witness the beginning of the Kwantlen First Nation walking tour.

The tours have only been running for three years, but in that short time they have already had a great impact. For members of the Kwantlen First Nation, they are an opportunity to share and preserve their extensive culture and history. For many of those who go on the tours, they are a chance to learn, enjoy nature, and interact with the local community.

Led by Kwantlen First Nation members Fern Gabriel, Lisa Thomas, and Elinor Atkins, the walk will span one kilometre down the road, past the river, and through two points of interest, where Gabriel will tell the group about the Kwantlen land and people. After each speech, Thomas steps forward to sing a traditional song relevant to Gabriel’s subject, her voice strong, heavy with emotion, and often joined by the other two guides’.

“We want to welcome you to the land,” Gabriel says as the walk begins. “I’m going to tell you that Kwantlen means, to the people, the tireless runners and tireless hunters, and I thank you all for still standing here. The rain is plenty and it’s good for you!”

She continues, “Being here tonight is a prayer, and it’s really powerful that you came.”

Gabriel speaks of a time when news was spread by word of mouth and when the river was protected from raiders with aggression. Back then, the river was so full of life that “you could walk on the backs of the salmon.” Meanwhile, she directs the crowd across The Jacob Haldi Bridge, to the first point of interest.

On the dark pavement, Thomas walks over the slippery bridge, grinning as she explains that she has been singing for as long as she can remember. Inspired by the women in her family to share her gift, Thomas has been accompanying Gabriel on the tours for two years.

“I grew up with it all my life. I’m a strong believer in our culture and the traditions of our people,” she says as we arrive at two waterproof plaques decorated with diagrams of salmon.

The first story told is about how the fish came to Kwantlen waters. Three brothers battle with the sun—or Seaquam—to bring the salmon to their shores, but not without a difficulty.

Thomas sings “The Salmon Song” before we move onto our second point, a sign that reads “Welcome to Kwantlen” standing tall before the group.

Gabriel expresses lament for the lack of a snow-topped peak on Mount Baker, or Kulshan, which would be within eyeshot if it weren’t for the clouds. Then she discusses the naming and changing of the land and preservation of the flora and fauna on it, before moving onto a lecture on eulachon, a type of smelt found here.

Gabriel laughs as she reflects on a childhood memory. “I would put eulachon in my shirt, and at the end of the day I’d bring them home and my mom would fry them all up,” she says.

We learn the past of the eulachon and the people who transformed into them long ago. Eggs found inside one of them, she explains, promise prosperity “in all aspects of your life,” and the fish were once “a hot commodity” known for their high trading value.

Suddenly, Gabriel becomes stern. Her brow furrows.

“We are still caring for the land,” she remarks. “The Soho is a species at risk. Now the Sockeye is a species at risk—something I thought I would never see in my life. The spring salmon, the eulachon, again, another species at risk. We need to come together and pray, maybe. I don’t know what the answer is at this point, but we need to care for the land.”

The mood is briefly solemn, but soon it lightens. Gabriel introduces a love story to conclude the tour. Every member of the party is soaked to the bone, but listening contentedly through shivers.

Thomas sings the final song of the evening, with a partially English refrain: “You are the only one to fly that high / Fly, eagle, fly, soar through the sky.”

“It is believed that it takes your prayers under its wings and brings it to a higher power. It can fly from physical world to spirit world and back again,” says Gabriel. “The First Nations believe in animism, which is a commonality between all our people that all animals have a meaning.”

The dog represents loyalty and reminds us to be kind and happy, she says. A small pup perks its head out from a knapsack on her back, eyes blinking sleepily.

There is a brief question period before the group disperses. Some walk back to their cars holding hands, pets, or children, shielding their faces from the rain and wind. It is now dark on the river, and the shadows of the trees fade against the black night. From the trail, illuminated in dim lamplight, Gabriel waves goodbye with Thomas and Atkins at her side.

The Next Event

Those looking to learn more about the Kwantlen First Nation can attend We Are at Kwantlen, DISO DAYS—an event that will utilize “riveting storytelling … to explore the process of decolonization and to raise consciousness on the sovereignty of the Unceded Coast Salish peoples whose territories we reside on,” as written on the event’s Facebook page.

KPU Elder in Residence, Lekeyten, and Kwantlen First Nation member Brandon Gabriel will speak at We Are at Kwantlen, held on Sept. 13 from 4:00pm to 7:00pm at KPU Surrey’s Aboriginal Gathering Place.

“It’s important that [KPU students] know they are on a very strong piece of land that once belonged to the Kwantlen First Nation people. I hope that it betters their life and it puts them on a pathway where the doors are open for learning,” says Lekeyten. “It’s going to be one of the things that you just don’t forget, and I’m so glad that the people that put this forward have a vision.”