Shein: Destruction left behind in a chase for more

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Fast fashion dominates the clothing market. In every mall, and in only a few steps, we lose ourselves in a sea of clothing from Forever 21, Zara, H&M, you name it. Among those enters a new household staple — Shein.

Closely nipping its heels are the condemning cries of unsustainability. As climate change rises in the consumer conscious, businesses increasingly prioritize sustainability. However, fast fashion lags behind, and even undoes, that much needed shift. 

Given the most recent Shein pop-up store opened in Vancouver from April 11 to 14, we need to reconsider how we engage with these fast fashion behemoths.

To understand whether a company is sustainable, we have to understand what sustainability entails. At its simplest, an entity is sustainable when it’s responsible economically, socially, and ecologically in the societies they operate in. Only when there is a balance, do both people and nature thrive.  

Companies like Shein violate business conduct integral to that balance. Its very business model is a waste generator. Like Amazon, it operates solely online with an extensive network of third-party suppliers, and the occasional pop-up store. Financially, the business is insanely successful with a whopping $100 billion reported in sales in 2022 and continuing to grow.

Phasing trends and affordable prices define fast fashion, yet Shein takes this to another level. A professor from the University of Delaware, Sheng Lu, found Shein had a rotation of 1.3 million new styles during a 12-month period, far outstripping even Zara at 35,000, Wired reported. 

On Shein’s website, orange discount signs litter the screen. For example, “15% off for orders over CA$0.01,” one says, while another states “-CA$25 for orders over CA$99.” What a steal! Or is it?  

When we bring sustainability into the equation, it is actually far more expensive. Economically, customers seem to spend less, but often spend more with frequent shopping. As piles of clothes and knickknacks accumulate, we buy more and wear less. Within one year, a pricey, well-beloved hoodie can result in as little as $2 per wear, while a cheap, trendy new petticoat might be worn twice and forgotten, resulting in around $10 per wear. 

Socially, as chants of new and more skyrocket, so does the harm to people. Creators often see weeks of hard work stolen. Garment workers face miserable conditions. 

An anonymous worker told Rest of World, “It’s impossible to go to work from [just] nine to five,” when the order production speed in China is within three to seven days. 

Workers face health risks as Greenpeace Germany found hazardous chemicals in excess of the European Union regulatory limits in 15 per cent of the 47 Shein items they tested.  

Ecologically, Shein claims commitment to sustainability. Yet, on their website, Shein Group reported in 2022, their production volume increased by 57 per cent while their emissions increased by 52 per cent. That is a growth in total emissions from 6.04 million tons of CO2 to 9.17 million, which allegedly “comes from the strong growth of [Shein’s] business.”

Fashion Revolution’s 2023 Fashion Transparency Index rates Shein an abysmal 0-10 per cent. Despite sustainability claims, they are frustratingly vague on their sustainability work. They throw around green-esque concepts like “Scope 1 emissions,” “repurposing textile surplus,” and “100% forest-safe,” but provide little detail of any action they undertake to get there. 

The story becomes clearer — Shein isn’t moving towards sustainability, it is maximizing on the confusion to pretend. 

So, what can we do? Consumers cannot bear the brunt of sustainability, but we are not powerless. Online brands that follow through with sustainability exist. Many will cost the same or less than we already spend on clothes long-term. 

For what we can, buying second-hand offers up a wealth of fun and fashionable opportunities. Even fast fashion has its lesser evils, and wearing our clothes longer is always an option. 

Perhaps the next time we walk by a Shein pop-up-store, we’ll see the destruction it leaves behind instead of the absurdly low prices.